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To find its English Cotton Count (Ne) Understanding reed measurements
Ne=1505315 1 Dent: The Basic Unit

Ne≈35.43 Think of a “dent” as a single “tooth” or, more accurately,
Meaning: A 150 Denier yarn is approximately 35.43 Ne. the space between two adjacent wires in the reed. It’s
the slot.
This conversion shows you the equivalent thickness in
the other system. • If you look closely at a reed, you’ll see a series of
parallel metal wires. The opening between these
3 From tex to metric count (Nm)
wires is a dent.
• You have: Tex – Remember: Higher Tex = thicker • Typically, one, two, or sometimes more warp
yarn.
threads are passed through a single dent. This
• You want: Metric Count (Nm) – Remember: Lower depends on the desired closeness of the fabric
Nm = thicker yarn. and the thickness of the yarn.

The rule: To get Metric Count from Tex, you always divide 2 Dents per linear space: The Universal Concept
a special number (1000) by the Tex value.
This is the most straightforward way to understand a
Formula: Nm=Tex1000 reed’s fineness. It means: How many of these “dent”
Why 1000? Tex is grams per 1000 meters. Nm is spaces are there within a specific length (like an inch or
kilometers per kilogram (which is also meters per gram). a centimeter)?
Since 1000 meters is 1 kilometer and 1000 grams is 1 • Example: If a reed is described as “30 dents per
kilogram, the relationship simplifies to 1000 divided by inch (DPI),” it means that if you measure one inch
Tex. along the reed’s width, you will count 30 individual

Example slots where threads can go.
• Significance
You have a yarn described as “15 Tex”. This means 1000
meters of this yarn weigh 15 grams. It’s a relatively thin - Higher “dents per inch” (DPI) = Finer reed. More
yarn. slots in the same space means the wires are
To find its Metric Count (Nm): closer together, allowing you to weave a denser
fabric.
Nm=151000
- Lower “dents per inch” (DPI) = Coarser reed.
Nm≈66.67 Fewer slots in the same space means the wires
Meaning: A 15 Tex yarn is approximately 66.67 Nm. are farther apart, leading to a more open fabric.
Both numbers describe a relatively thin yarn (lower direct 3 Reed count: Specific Systems
count, higher indirect count).
“Reed Count” is often used as a general term for
The reed the numerical fineness of a reed, but it becomes
The reed is like the “comb” of the loom. It’s a fundamental specific when referring to various regional or historical
tool in weaving that does a few critical jobs: measurement systems. These systems differ only in the
“linear space” they refer to.
1 Organizing the long threads (Warp): Before you
even start weaving, all the threads that run the length • Example: English Reed Count (or sometimes just
of your fabric (called warp threads or ends) need to “Reed Count” in many places)
be perfectly spaced out. The reed ensures they are - This system often refers to the number of dents
parallel, don’t get tangled, and are exactly the right in 1 inch. So, if someone says “a 40-count reed”
distance apart to form your fabric’s width. Each warp in an English context, they likely mean 40 dents
thread (or a small group of them) passes through one per inch.
of the narrow slots in the reed.
• Example: French Reed Count
2 Guiding the crosswise thread (Weft): As the shuttle
(the device that carries the weft thread, which runs - This system often refers to the number of dents
across the width of the fabric) flies back and forth, the in 1 centimeter. So, a “15-count French reed”
reed provides a clear tunnel for it. would be 15 dents per centimeter.
3 Making the fabric tight (Beating-up): This is super • Example: Continental Reed Count
important! After the shuttle inserts a weft thread, - This might refer to the number of dents in 10
the whole reed swings forward with force. It pushes centimeters.
that newly inserted weft thread tightly against the The key is always to ask or clarify what the “linear space”
previously woven fabric. This action, called “beating- is if it’s not explicitly stated as “dents per inch” or “dents
up,” is what makes the fabric dense and strong. per cm.”
Without it, your fabric would be loose and flimsy, like
a very open mesh.
Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.4.36&37 63